
Lily Falls
Lily Falls
A 26-meter waterfall near Ampefy, fed by Lake Itasy. Between colonial legend, ancient taboos and active volcanism of Madagascar's Highlands.
Lily Falls, a few kilometers from Ampefy in Madagascar's Highlands, is a 26-meter waterfall fed by the waters of Lake Itasy, an ancient volcanic crater. Beyond its dramatic curtain and deep pools, the site owes its reputation to a tragic colonial legend and an earlier name, Antafofobe, which ties the waterfall to the traditional beliefs of the Sakalava-Merina people.
Why visit Lily Falls
The waterfall combines three interests rarely found together in a single Madagascar excursion: still-active volcanism visible in the surroundings (geysers, hot springs), a legendary tale passed down locally, and a lakeside setting perfect for gentle activities. It is also one of the most accessible getaways from Antananarivo for those wanting to escape the capital in less than two hours.
History and legend of the place
Before being renamed, the site was called Antafofobe. Considered sacred, it was subject to strict taboos (fady): certain foods were prohibited here, certain behaviors forbidden to visitors and locals.
Oral tradition tells that in 1923, a colonial settler came to the waterfall with his two children, Rodin and Lily. Lily reportedly disappeared into a cave beneath the falls and was never found, while her brother managed to reach safety. The father then renamed the site after his daughter's name. This event, recounted locally, marks in the collective memory the end of the taboos attached to Antafofobe: some inhabitants interpret it as a symbolic sacrifice.
Today, stories still speak of Lily's spirit appearing on the rocks surrounding the waterfall. This legendary dimension fully participates in the site's popularity and the relationship locals maintain with it.
What to see and do here
The waterfall and its viewpoint
Access is via a trail leading to several vantage points over the falls. The flow varies greatly by season: very powerful after rains, more defined in the dry season, which then allows better observation of the rock structure.
Lake Itasy and the Isle of the Virgin
A few minutes from the waterfall, Lake Itasy occupies an ancient crater. A boat excursion reaches the Isle of the Virgin, from which you enjoy a 360° panoramic view over the water and surrounding landscapes. The lake is suitable for kayaking and fishing; kitesurfing, when practiced in the area, takes place on the lake itself rather than at the foot of the falls.
Geysers and hot springs
The surroundings of Ampefy include several geysers and hot springs, evidence of the region's recent volcanic activity. They are visited as a complement to the waterfall, typically as part of a day-long circuit.
Market and crafts of Ampefy
The town of Ampefy hosts a market where you'll find local crafts: woven baskets, necklaces, as well as fresh produce (vegetables, avocados) typical of the Highlands.
When to go
The dry season, from May to November, remains the most favorable: passable tracks, dry trails, clear light over the lake. The months of May and June often offer the best balance between sustained waterfall flow and comfortable walking. The rainy season, from November to March, should be avoided for hiking: tracks become slippery and certain sections are difficult to traverse.
How to get there
- By car from Antananarivo: approximately 135 km, roughly 2 hours by road via RN 1 then RN 43 to Ampefy.
- On foot from Ampefy: allow approximately 2 hours of walking to reach the waterfall, through volcanic landscapes and small hamlets.
- By mountain bike: marked circuits of 27 to 28 km connect the waterfall passing through hills and the shores of the lake.
Practical information
- Bring sturdy hiking shoes: the access trail is uneven and can be slippery near viewpoints.
- A local guide is recommended, both for safety around the waterfall and for cultural context (legend, taboos).
- Swimming at the foot of the falls is not advised due to currents and the depth of the pools.
- Allow half a day for the waterfall alone, a full day if you combine Lake Itasy, the Isle of the Virgin and geysers.
Nearby attractions
- Ampefy: base village for your visit, with accommodations, market and access to the lake.
- Isle of the Virgin: boat excursion and panorama over Lake Itasy.
- Geysers and hot springs of Ampefy: witnesses to the region's volcanism, accessible within the day.
Frequently asked questions
Frequently asked questions
The simplest way is by car: approximately 135 km via RN 1 then RN 43 to Ampefy, around 2 hours of driving. From Ampefy, you reach the waterfall by mountain bike (27-28 km) or walking approximately 2 hours.
It is not recommended. The pools beneath the falls are deep, currents are strong, and the site is associated with accounts of accidents. Water activities (kayaking, fishing, swimming) are better enjoyed on Lake Itasy.
Half a day is sufficient for the waterfall and its viewpoints. To combine with Lake Itasy, the Isle of the Virgin and the geysers, plan for a full day departing from Ampefy.
Preparing your journey
Lily Falls fits easily into an itinerary from Antananarivo, before or after a loop through the Highlands. To build a custom itinerary including Ampefy, Lake Itasy and other Madagascar stops, consult our Madagascar journeys.
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