Sainte-Marie, also known as Nosy Boraha, is a tropical destination off the east coast of Madagascar. This small island, 49 km long and 5 km wide, offers you an idyllic landscape of charming fishing villages and untouched beaches. Authentic and unspoiled, it promises complete escape from the everyday.

History

The Jewish Connection?

Between legend and reality, the history of Sainte-Marie Island or Nosy Boraha is fascinating. Some also call it Nosy Mbavy or "the island of women."

According to legend, a Jewish man named Abraham or Ibrahim was accosted by a group of women upon his arrival on the island. Tired and hungry, he met an elderly woman who took pity on him and offered him food.

Grateful, Abraham blessed his benefactor and her descendants, ensuring they would always find water during their travels. The fable tells that a spring gushed forth near the old woman's dwelling.

Referring to this story, some historians suggest that the first foreign visitors to the island were Yemenites, Yemenite Jews.

The Legend of Jonah

Another legend connects Nosy Boraha to the biblical myth of Jonah. According to a villager named Boraha, Jonah, pursued by a whale, was rescued by a dolphin that deposited him on the island's shore.

The Pirates

The first Europeans arrived at Nosy Boraha toward the end of the 16th century. The pirate Thomas White married an eastern Madagascar princess.

Their union led to the birth of the Zanamalata dynasty. Their son Ratsimilaho founded the Betsimisaraka ethnic group, uniting the coastal tribes. His kingdom extended as far as Mahavelona.

In 1685, Nosy Boraha became an important pirate stronghold. The majority of ships passing through were plundered. The buccaneers found a secure haven at Sainte-Marie.

They pillaged all the spice merchants from India who had docked on the island to resupply or repair their vessels.

Some historians estimate that around 1,000 pirates found refuge on the island. Several wrecks of pirate ships are still visible near Baie des Forbans.

Two of them are believed to have belonged to Captain Kidd and Captain Condent. Pirate graves can also be found in the bay, near Ambodifotatra.

The French

Nosy Boraha came under French rule in 1750, on July 30th to be precise, when Queen Betty signed a treaty.

According to accounts, Betty, the daughter of Ratsimilaho, fell in love with a former Gascon soldier named Jean Onésime Filet (nicknamed La Bigorne), who allegedly used all his charm to persuade the queen to sign the treaty. Betty's palace then became the Governor's residence, now a museum.

Madame Island, where this monument stands, is also home to Madagascar's first Catholic church (1857), whose altar was a gift from the Empress Eugénie, wife of Napoleon III.

The first French settlers here were, however, pirates. It is indeed possible to visit their tombs at Ambodifotatra.

Sainte-Marie Island Today

A Welcoming Population

A jewel of Madagascar's east coast, Sainte-Marie holds countless attractions. Between strolls, swimming, and sipping coconut punch before a mesmerizing sunset, you'll find plenty to occupy your stay. Forget the urge to rush through sightseeing—savor every excursion and landscape in calm and serenity.

Nosy Boraha is surrounded by several kilometers of fine sandy beaches, near the bays of Antongil and Tintingue, other suspected pirate havens.

The island has inherited a rich cultural and linguistic blend. The population primarily speaks Saint-Marien, a mixture of French and dialects from the main island, with some Bantu, English, and Indonesian influences. The kindness and generosity of the inhabitants add to the destination's charm. Let yourself be swept away by the peaceful atmosphere and the joy of living that permeates the place.

Islets, Beaches and Bays

Beyond the main island, Sainte-Marie encompasses several islets.

Lush vegetation, beaches, bays and coves await you in this dream destination. The main island can be explored on foot or by bicycle. Although the terrain is rugged in the eastern section, it offers beautiful beaches, such as the Ampanihy peninsula, which stands out from the mainland by Ampanihy Bay. Swimming enthusiasts should be cautious, as the waters are deep here. To reach the most isolated bays and coves, opt for a pirogue journey.

A coral reef protects the bays. Treat yourself to a scuba diving session to admire the coral formations that make up the lagoon, tropical fish, and the sea turtles that have made their home in the wrecks of pirate ships.

The Forests

Like all destinations on Madagascar's east coast, Sainte-Marie Island experiences heavy rainfall, nurturing lush nature. Head to Ankarena Beach, bordered by forest vegetation and a seaside cave, to discover the fauna and flora of the Indian Ocean.

Spanning 400 hectares, the Ikalalao Forest is home to numerous orchid varieties. It is also a refuge for three lemur species: the Microcebus, the mouse lemur, and the dwarf lemur. The chameleons living there are all endemic.

The secondary forest of Ambodena lists a great variety of birds, chameleons, geckos, and tree frogs. Among primates, you'll find mouse lemurs, brown lemurs with white heads, gray gentle lemurs, and red and white ruffed lemurs.

The Ampanihy Forest is dominated by mangroves to explore by pirogue. Sea turtles occasionally come ashore on the beach to lay eggs.

What to See in Sainte-Marie?

• The Catholic Church dating from 1857, whose altar is a gift from the French Empress Eugénie.
• The old fort that crowns the top of a hill. The insignia of Louis XV can still be seen there.
• Forbans Island, circular in shape, which houses the ruin of an arch.
• The Saint-Pierre pirate cemetery, set on a peninsula, etc.

Climate

Nosy Boraha enjoys a tropical climate. Expect a warm tropical season from January to April, a temperate and humid season from May to August, and a mild and dry season from September to December. Temperatures range between 20 and 30°C, with alternating rain and sunshine.

There are two options for reaching Sainte-Marie:

• By air: Via Air Madagascar departing from Antananarivo, Toamasina, or Réunion, and Air Austral from Réunion or Toamasina.
• By sea:

Allow two hours by boat from Soanierana Ivongo.

You can choose between bicycle or walking for your transportation. There are no taxis, but Toktok vehicles are available.