When visiting southern Madagascar, make a detour to the village of Beheloka, approximately 60 km south of Tuléar. Nestled between a crystal-clear lagoon and gleaming dunes, this secluded bay invites you to experience the authentic life of the Vezo people. Here, existence moves to the rhythm of the sea: outrigger canoes depart the beach at dawn, fish dry in the sun, and locals welcome visitors with disarming simplicity. Whether you wish to join a fishing expedition, learn kitesurfing, or simply unwind gazing at the ocean, Beheloka offers a timeless escape. With a bit of luck, you may even spot humpback whales dancing beyond the coral reef.

A story of resilience

Situated in one of Madagascar's most arid regions, Beheloka remained isolated from the wider world for decades. Until the early 2010s, the mostly Vezo fishing families had to walk several kilometers to reach drinking water. This harsh daily reality reflects the remoteness in which the village existed, with minimal connection to major infrastructure. Yet despite these challenges, residents have preserved their traditional way of life, rooted in fishing, livestock herding, and subsistence agriculture adapted to the climate. The transmission of maritime skills and an intimate bond with nature have shaped a profoundly resilient culture.

Beheloka today

Over the past decade, the village has evolved steadily. With support from NGOs like WWF and international partners, development projects have improved living conditions, notably through the installation of a solar desalination system that transformed access to fresh water. Beheloka now attracts curious travelers seeking authenticity. They discover pristine lagoons, remarkable biodiversity, and the richness of engaging with local fishermen. Far from mass tourism, the village embodies a balance between living traditions and thoughtful openness to the outside world.

What to do in Beheloka?

Here are the must-see activities during your visit to Beheloka:

• Participate in traditional fishing: Board a hand-crafted outrigger canoe and join fishermen in their daily work for an authentic immersion.
• Observe humpback whales: Between June and September, these marine giants put on a breathtaking display just beyond the reef. Watch from the beach or venture out by boat.
• Learn kitesurfing: The shallow lagoon combined with steady winds makes this an ideal spot to discover the sport in a peaceful setting.
• Enjoy the lagoon: Swim in crystalline waters, relax on pristine beaches, or take an outrigger canoe ride along the coast.
• Explore by 4x4: The coastal track takes you north toward Anakao or south to Itampolo, Lavanono and Cape Sainte-Marie, through dunes and dry forests.
• Observe wildlife on the Mahafaly Plateau: A few kilometers from the village, explore this arid plateau where you may encounter Madagascar's drongo, a bird capable of mimicking other species.
• Immerse yourself in local life: Through craftsmanship, direct fish sales, or simple conversations, every encounter in Beheloka tells a genuine and moving story.

When to visit?

The ideal time to visit Beheloka spans May to October. The weather is pleasant, tracks are more accessible, and the sea is conducive to water activities. This period, particularly June to September, is also when whales are observable.

Conversely, from November to April, the rainy season makes some tracks difficult or impassable without a 4x4, significantly lengthening travel times.

Beheloka is accessible only by track from the town of Tuléar. Here are the stages:

• RN7 to Andranovory: From Tuléar, take Route Nationale 7 for approximately 65 km inland to the village of Andranovory.
• RN10 toward Tsihombe: From Andranovory, turn onto RN10, a secondary unpaved road crossing southern Madagascar to Tsihombe. This road is passable by 4x4 only, particularly during the rainy season.
• Track to Beheloka: A sandy track then leads to Beheloka along the coast. This track, crossing arid and sparsely inhabited areas, marks the end of road access in this region.

Tip: prefer a 4x4 vehicle and, if possible, a local driver familiar with the terrain. Allow several hours of driving from Tuléar depending on track conditions.