The Great South, Madagascar’s extreme South
Mineral and arid, the South is a landscape of grassy savannah and vast spaces. It is the land of the Bara herders and cattle rustlers. It is in the heart of this semi-desert region that the tortured magic of the Isalo and Andringitra massifs lies. Despite its harshness, the region boasts an exceptional natural and human wealth, as evidenced by the refined stone tombs adorned with totems. Further south, the southernmost tip of the island is the driest and wildest region of Madagascar. The “land of thorns” is home to strange plant species (Didieras, Alluaudias…) as well as unexpected reptiles and birds.
As you head south from Fianarantsoa, the landscapes abruptly change tone: the ravinala (traveler’s tree) give way to succulent plants, rice fields to rocky plateaus, and the coolness is replaced by a scorching sun. Temperatures easily exceed 30°C, and the region receives barely 400 mm of rainfall annually. For those wishing to discover the wonders of the Malagasy South, it's best to travel between May and August: winter slightly softens the heat, and the Tsiokatimo wind sweeps across the entire coast, favoring sailing conditions.
The first stop is the Isalo National Park in Ranohira, where the ruined sandstone massifs, crisscrossed by deep canyons, have been praised by UNESCO. The landscape resembles that of the Colorado Plateau in the southwest United States. Wind, rain, and erosion have sculpted magnificent geological formations in the shape of arches and needles, at the foot of which lie natural pools. The breathtaking view from the Isalo window at sunset is a must-see. Apart from the lemurs, which are just as agile in the humid forests of the East as in the savannah of the bush, the species encountered are endemic to the park. Aloes, euphorbias, kalanchoes, and brightly patterned frogs inhabit the rocky slopes. These plants and animals have developed the ability to adapt to the harsh and hostile desert environment.
In southwestern Madagascar, the seaside resort of Ifaty charms visitors with its endless white sand beaches and lagoon surrounded by coral reefs. A stroll along the shoreline offers a chance to spot humpback whales, visible during winter when they migrate to the warm waters of the Mozambique Channel. Hikers will enjoy crossing the bush of the inland area. Predominantly succulent plants, such as Euphorbia stenoclada, whose leafless branches resemble coral, or Didierea, with its stout, spiny trunk resembling the arms of a giant octopus, dominate the landscape. Cacti, shaped like candles, columns, or compact like pumpkins, scatter the bush. Ranobe Lagoon is the starting point for a boat excursion to Ambohimailaka and Madiorano, renowned resort areas. On the return journey, a brief stop at Zombitse National Park, known for its endemic bird species, is a must before continuing to the Tsinjoriake protected area, where birdwatching is combined with an adventurous trek through caves and beautiful mangroves, along with the attraction of animist rituals. To promote responsible tourism, visitors are encouraged to interact with local populations: learn about their fishing techniques, how they exploit marine resources, and their creative cuisine using red algae, octopus, and sea cucumbers.
Meeting the Ethnic Groups of the Great South
The natural heritage is not the only subject of curiosity. The customs of the Bara, Antandroy, and Mahafaly peoples deserve your full attention. They have inherited from the Bantu the agro-pastoral tradition, attachment to savannah lands, and the worship of spirits. Cattle rustling is a universal sport here, sanctioned by tradition. Regardless of the law enforcement authorities who consider it a serious social crime, a man cannot escape this ritual if he wishes to marry and be accepted by the community. Among the Bara, a man's fortune is not measured by his bank account but by the size of his herd, his courage in stealing cattle without getting caught, and the number of his concubines. In a Mahafaly village, in the southwest of Madagascar, you can witness a funeral ceremony that sometimes lasts for weeks. To honor the passage of the deceased to the afterlife, their relatives indulge in strong libations, sacrifice large numbers of zebu, and build a monumental tomb made of stone, decorated with a vatolahy (a 2-meter-high stone pillar) as a memorial. Observing rice planting, tasting wild honey, trying a zebu cart trek, discovering local craftsmanship, and enjoying the festive atmosphere after the harvest… Immersing oneself in the Extreme South of Madagascar offers a unique cultural experience. The civilization of these southern peoples is dominated by cattle: it is a source of manure, used as transport, and serves as a means of exchange…The civilization of these southern peoples revolves around cattle: it is the source of manure, serves as a means of transportation and exchange, guarantees respect and esteem from the community, and ensures a happy life after death. Cattle are so central that they have given rise to a popular form of entertainment: tolon’omby, a Malagasy bullfighting spectacle where the bravest men compete by riding an enraged bull amidst the cheers of the crowd. This is an experience not to be missed !