The West Coast and the Mozambique Channel
Western Madagascar offers exceptional landscapes. This is the land of the Sakalava people, shaped by a blend of cosmopolitan, African, and Comorian influences. Sandy beaches and large rocky bays line the coast, while fertile valleys flank the major rivers flowing into the Mozambique Channel. The region boasts lush rice paddies, tobacco fields, mangroves, and abundant vegetation that shelters birds, reptiles, sea turtles, and many species of lemurs. Inland, vast plateaus reveal rare patches of dense, humid forests, more often transitioning into grassy savannas adorned with towering baobabs. The region is home to two UNESCO World Heritage Sites: the striking karst formations of the Tsingy de Bemaraha and the Avenue of the Baobabs. The climate here is notably hot and dry.
General overview
Unlike the lush forests of the North, the Western region of Madagascar offers a sparse vegetation cover. Its allure lies elsewhere. The coastal landscape is breathtaking, with alternating bays, deep estuaries, and coral reefs. Its great reddish rivers—Sofia, Betsiboka, Tsiribihina—are bordered by colonies of turtles, birds, and flying foxes, calmly observing the fishing dhows. Inland, siliceous plains are punctuated by laterite or basalt cliffs, with the Tsingy de Bemaraha standing as the geological crown jewel.
The region's natural wonders are complemented by the warmth and beauty of its people. In Sakalava villages, every passerby will greet you with a friendly "Manahoana" (How are you?). These sun-bronzed faces, arms hardened from farming, and cattle herders embody resilience and joy. Far removed from urban life, they cling to ancestral traditions, finding happiness in social unity and celebrations. The Sakalava people, who once ruled the kingdoms of Boina and Menabe before the Merina conquest, continue to cherish their vibrant cultural heritage.
The West is as arid as the East is wet. The Menabe region receives barely 685 mm of rainfall annually. Seven long months of drought shape its sparse population, savanna landscapes, and the leisurely lifestyle of its people. Rural women wear the distinctive lambahoany, a rectangular cotton cloth serving as both headgear and tunic.
Mahajanga : The city of flowers
Mahajanga, known as the City that Heals, is a highlight of the West. A stroll along the Corniche at sunset is a must, as crowds gather to enjoy barbecues or cocktails by the seaside. Just 12 km outside the city, the Red Circus enchants tourists with its multicolored sandstone cliffs, hiding lakes, mountain springs, tombs, and sacred sites.
To the northwest of Madagascar, the Ankarafantsika National Park is a haven for wildlife. Its endemic species and pristine natural sites are unparalleled. The park’s dry savanna, adorned with lakes, deciduous mountain forests, and canyons, invites activities like fishing, boating, hiking, and bird safaris. Guided tours reveal the park's unique flora, such as the Pachypodium rutenbergianum, a yellow-flowered tree resembling a candelabrum, and the Baudouinia fluggeiformis, a woody species with medicinal and economic value. The most popular trail, the Coquerel Circuit, introduces visitors to the Coquerel’s sifaka, a white lemur with brown patches unique to the park.
Travelers heading south from Ankarafantsika can visit the coastal villages of Katsepy and Soalala, where fishing is a way of life. From there, the coastline dazzles with its lakes, lagoons, and sandy beaches. Baly Bay, a harmonious blend of land and sea environments, is three hours from Soalala. This bay is home to the endemic ploughshare tortoise, often seen near mangroves and bamboo thickets.
From Tsiribihina to the famous Tsingy de Bemaraha
Western Madagascar's grandeur is also experienced by navigating its majestic rivers. The Tsiribihina River descent is an adventure straight out of the Arabian Nights. Travelers glide in traditional outrigger canoes, passing crocodiles sunbathing on the banks and cascading waterfalls that give way to charming natural fountains.
Further along the river’s right bank lies the Tsingy de Bemaraha Nature Reserve, a true cathedral of limestone carved by 50 million years of erosion. With formations reaching 30 to 60 meters, some peaks rise to 100 meters. Exploring this labyrinth of jagged karst cliffs offers a vivid glimpse into Earth's geological history. The reserve is also a biodiversity hotspot, home to the rare aye-aye lemur, the silky white sifaka, marsh birds like the vorofaly, and the Brookesia perarmata, the world’s smallest chameleon. However, this natural wonder faces threats from bushfires, lemur hunting, and illegal logging.
Avenue of the Baobabs
For a more relaxed exploration, head to Morondava on the river’s left bank. Once a strategic port for Sakalava trade, Morondava now thrives on tourism. Visitors can enjoy seaside bungalows, boat tours through mangroves, artisan workshops, and the ornate royal tombs. The highlight, however, is the Avenue of the Baobabs, where ancient baobab trees line the road between Morondava and Belo-sur-Tsiribihina. These “bottle trees” thrive in the arid climate by storing vast amounts of water in their massive trunks.
Anjohibe Caves
On the road back to Mahajanga, a detour to the Anjohibe Caves is worth the effort. Though 63 km of dusty tracks separate it from the main road, these limestone caves, featuring lakes, waterfalls, and lemur-filled forests, are Madagascar’s most significant cave system.
Mozambique Channel
No trip to Madagascar’s west coast is complete without crossing the Mozambique Channel. Sailboats take travelers to unspoiled islands scattered like numbers on a mathematical grid: Nosy Be, a luxury destination with Madagascar’s finest resorts; Nosy Komba, the kingdom of lemurs; the Radama Archipelago, with its fishing dhows and coffee- and ylang-ylang-covered villages; Nosy Lava, a former Portuguese trading post turned prison in 1911; and Nosy Saba, a honeymoon paradise of turquoise waters and lush vegetation. The underwater world is equally enchanting, teeming with coral reef fish, sharks, humpback whales, manta rays, and playful dolphins.
Cultural immersion in the Sakalava region
A journey through the West can include cultural themes. Like other Malagasy ethnic groups, the Sakalava honor their ancestors. This age-old tradition remains vital, with young Sakalava adhering to it to avoid social exclusion or loss of inheritance.
The Fitampoha—the royal bone cleansing ceremony—is the region's most solemn event, held every five years. During this ritual, the remains of tribal kings are exhumed and washed in the sacred waters of the Tsiribihina River. Visitors may also witness **fomba**, invocatory rites performed before river crossings, involving sacrifices and prayers to ensure safe passage.
The savatse, a winter circumcision ceremony, enlivens villages with festivities lasting several days. In Sakalava society, male descendants are highly valued, and circumcision marks a boy's initiation into manhood.