The Highlands of Madagascar
The Highlands of Madagascar stretch southward, where its lush hills and undulating rice fields gradually give way to the arid landscapes of the Great South. Here, due to the altitude, the climate is temperate, making it ideal for trekking. The unfavorable months are December, January, and February, a period when cyclones typically wreak havoc. Outside of this time, travelers can count on an adventurous journey under the blessing of the weather.
The cities of the Highlands
Antananarivo, the capital, the "City of a Thousand", draws its unity from the harmony of contrasts; the chic glass buildings blend with the grandeur of royal palaces and the gritty lower neighborhoods. It’s a must-see for exploring the Analakely market, always vibrant in colors and flavors, and for visiting the Tsimbazaza Zoological Park. Afterward, the traveler heads to the Upper Town, built atop the capital, where the steep slopes and majestic palaces overshadow the neighborhoods with their tiled roofs and perpetually blooming balconies. The fortified city houses the Royal Palace of Manjakamiadana, hailed by historians as the finest example of Malagasy architecture. (By the way, the building is misnamed; the kingdom had more kings than queens, with queens only ascending the throne towards the end of the monarchy). The Upper Town is merely the starting point of a cultural tour that takes in the twelve sacred hills of Imerina: Alasora Hill, Ambohitrabiby Hill, Ambohidratrimo Hill, Ambohimanga Hill, Analamanga Hill, Antsahadinta Hill, Ikaloy Hill, Ilafy Hill, Imerimanjaka Hill, Imerimandroso Hill, Ambohijoky Hill, and Namehana Hill. The highlight of the visit is undoubtedly the royal hill of Ambohimanga (the Blue City), which was early recognized as a UNESCO World Heritage site. Captured by force in 1897 by Prince Ramboasalama, this hill became the political and religious capital of the Kingdom of Madagascar, the first kingdom officially recognized by Europeans.
A different kind of excursion awaits you in Antsirabe, known as the City of Water for its abundant hot springs and often considered the most charming city in Madagascar. Between tobacco plantations, volcanic landscapes, emerald lakes, and the forest maze of Ranomafana Park, Antsirabe is an endless playground for trekking enthusiasts. Other hiking destinations include Lake Alaotra, Lake Mantasoa, and Ampefy, a volcanic region filled with marshes, waterfalls, and impressive geysers. Your exploration of the Central Highlands of Madagascar would be incomplete without a stop in Fianarantsoa, "The City Where You Learn Well." This is the land of the Betsileo people, home to terraced rice fields, ancient vineyards, and skilled artisans.
Encounters in the Highlands
Visiting the Highlands also means forming bonds with the local people and falling in love with their cultural traditions. The people here are rich in a unique culture that the Merina and Betsileo ethnic groups inherited from Southeast Asia. One of the Malagasy people’s proudest concepts is "fihavanana": everyone respects one another, viewing each other as part of one united family; it’s rare for a villager to quarrel, raise their voice, or utter insults in public, as harmony is highly valued. This "fihavanana" is demonstrated through a legendary sense of hospitality. When visiting a village, tourists will be invited to share a rice meal with the farmers. The most authentic recipe is "vary sosoa," which is eaten in the evening: a rice broth served with skewers of zebu. The "fanorona," a traditional game similar to chess, is also worth exploring. A tailor-made trip in the Highlands may include folk song and dance performances. But the most distinctive feature of Merina and Betsileo civilization is ancestor worship. According to their beliefs, the relationship between the living and the dead continues beyond death. This is seen as another form of "fihavanana" by some. It leads to animist practices that sometimes offend fully converted Christians, but which most Malagasy still feel morally compelled to continue.
Hiking in the Highlands
Hiking through the heart of these breathtaking and little-known mountain landscapes is a fantastic way to discover and immerse oneself in the rural and cultural life of the people in the Central Highlands. Agriculture, cattle farming, and fishing employ the majority of the active population. The Tsaratanàna massif in the north, with the island’s highest peak, Mount Maromokotra at 2,876 meters, is covered in dense forest. It is rarely visited due to difficult access. An old poem beautifully describes the mountains of this region with the following lines:
« "Ô chain of mountains stretching endlessly,
Beautifully shaded and grassy,
As the gaze passes over them, with an innocent wink,
Your heights transmit a contagious nostalgia,
A liar claims not to succumb to the sighs,
It’s only that he wishes to return from exile and is ready to leave.».
These lines were written by a committed 20th-century poet, exiled to the Comoros for leading uprisings against colonial France. Just like him, travelers feel a tightness in their hearts when leaving the highlands of central Madagascar, where a kind and welcoming people live, to whom they’ve grown attached and from whom they must part. A journey one returns from with a heavy heart, filled with unforgettable memories...