Cultural emblems of Madagascar: Zebu and Rice

If someone familiar with the Big Island were asked to summarize Malagasy culture in a few words, they would certainly include zebu and rice. Here’s why.

The Zebu

Origins of the Malagasy Zebu

The presence of zebu, known as omby in Malagasy, on the Big Island is not a recent phenomenon! The first traces of these bovines in Madagascar date back to the 8th century. This was revealed by archaeological excavations conducted notably in the south and in the highlands at Andramasina Ambohimanana. 

According to researchers, these early zebus were small in size and, most notably, did not have humps. It was only through African and Austronesian migratory currents that new breeds, such as the humped cattle, arrived on the island. Over time, this breed became dominant, establishing itself as the standard among most Malagasy herders. So much so that the animal became a symbol of power and prosperity for its owner.

A sign of wealth and power

In the past, and still today in many parts of the island, a man’s wealth is measured by the number of zebus he owns. His cattle are his most valuable possession. In parts of the southern Mahafaly region, when the owner dies, a significant portion of the herd is slaughtered, and the horns are displayed on his tomb to signify his wealth. The most powerful families are those with the largest herds. This family asset, identifiable by ear markings, is managed by the eldest male descendant of the family’s eldest branch (the firstborn of the eldest sibling). Naturally, kings were the most powerful. Zebu have long been offered as gifts to seek a young woman’s hand in marriage or to seal business deals.

In rites and ceremonies

The zebu is also a sacred animal playing a key role in ceremonies. Every ritual must be overseen by an ombiasy (diviner) and accompanied by the sacrifice of one or more zebus. The number of animals sacrificed depends on the color of their hides, a fact known only to the ombiasy. Hence, having as many zebus as possible is ideal to be prepared for any eventuality. Sacrifices are also made on certain occasions as offerings to the ancestors (razana):

• In the north, at Anivorano Nord, to feed the sacred crocodiles of Lake Antagnavo.
• In the highlands, to commune with the ancestors and seek their blessings during any inauguration.
• In the northern province of Toamasina, to request permission to cultivate arable land that contains a tomb.

Various uses of Zebu

The zebu remains widely used as a working tool in Malagasy rural areas. It is even possible to see zebu carts alongside cars on the outskirts of Antananarivo. Zebus are still used to plow fields, transport crops, goods, and virtually anything else. 

The horned cattle also feature in a national sport: savika. In this event, the “zebu boy” clings to the hump, using his legs as springs to avoid falling and being trampled. The goal is to stay on as long as possible. In the central highlands of Madagascar, men of the Betsileo ethnic group practice “zebu fights” to impress young women. Moreover, the horns and skin of this animal serve as raw materials for artisans creating various objects, including decorations, drums, utensils, and more.

The decline of Zebu

It was traditionally believed that the number of zebus matched the population of the Big Island. However, in Tsiroanomandidy, in central-western Madagascar, the number of zebus sold has been declining. It dropped from 90,000 heads per year in the early 1990s to around 60,000 in the past two years, according to the Ministry of Agriculture and Livestock. The overall livestock population fell from 20 million in 2005 to 9 million in 2015, a sharp decline attributed to trafficking and thefts by dahalo.

Zebu and the Dahalo

In Bara culture, an ethnic group from the south, the dahalo is someone who steals a zebu to offer it to the father of his future wife or to settle a dispute between two families. Today, zebu theft is no longer confined to such practices but has become widespread criminal activity across the country. The dahalo (in its broader sense) now operate as organized gangs willing to kill to steal the animals. General Didier Paza, former secretary of state for the gendarmerie, estimates there were two thousand attacks on herds between 2011 and 2016. This phenomenon has driven many herders to abandon their trade, now deemed far too dangerous.

Rice

 A Vital Staple

Rice cultivation is central to Madagascar’s economic activity. It accounts for 12% of the GDP and sustains two million people. It is estimated that 60% of the country’s farmland is used for rice production. The Malagasy are voracious rice consumers and cannot do without it—it is the essential element of their diet. Studies estimate that the average Malagasy consumes 11.5 kg of rice per month. Rice is to the Malagasy what bread is to the French. In 2016, Madagascar had to import 240,000 tons of rice from India, Pakistan, and Myanmar because local production could not meet the population's needs.

A traditional crop

The arrival of warm weather often coincides with the first buds on peach trees. In traditional agriculture, respecting the plant cycle is not the only factor ensuring a bountiful harvest. Farmers often call upon *ombiasy* to protect against climatic threats and locust infestations. Every rice-growing season begins with rites, sacrifices, and incantations addressed to Zanahary (the Creator God) and the *razana* to secure a good harvest. The keeper of the charms also enforces rules and prohibitions. In case of transgressions, the offender must compensate the victims and provide the animal required for the atonement sacrifice. However, some scientists see these practices as an obstacle to the development of Malagasy rice farming.

Rice in all forms

Malagasy people eat rice at every meal and on all occasions: morning, noon, evening, every day, during celebrations, during ceremonies, etc. During the famadihana (the turning of the dead), they eat vary be menaka, rice soaked in zebu fat. If you visit a Malagasy home, the host will serve you rice, which may be white rice or red rice (the oldest variety of Malagasy rice, known as vary gasy), with or without a side dish (laoka). Rice is eaten with vegetables, meat, or voamaina (dry seeds). The vary amin’anana (rice porridge with some greens), a typical dish, is eaten in the morning and/or evening. On special occasions, they prepare Cantonese rice (a type of rice salad) which, contrary to its name, is not a Chinese dish. One can never have enough!

Bernard CONCHON

© Détours Madagascar - October 20, 2019