Madagascar vanilla: A precious commodity, but in peril

Vanilla is a highly prized spice widely used in the food industry (to flavor food products) and the cosmetics industry (for creating fragrances), also known as black gold.  

Vanilla is especially appreciated by pastry chefs and cooks worldwide for its taste and fragrance, particularly the variety from Madagascar. Visitors to Madagascar can discover this spice during their journey: touring plantations in the SAVA region or Nosy-Be, and tasting vanilla-flavored dishes.  

It is one of the symbols of the Great Island, introduced in 1871 by planters from Reunion Island. The SAVA region alone accounts for nearly 80% of the world’s production! Yet experts and observers agree that Malagasy vanilla is under threat.

The flagship export of the great island

Vanilla is essential for Madagascar as it sustains over 80,000 growers and produces more than 80% of the world’s vanilla, representing 5% of Madagascar’s GDP. A drop in vanilla exports and prices devalues the local currency, the Ariary. The SAVA region (including four localities: Sambava, Antalaha, Vohémar, and Andapa) alone comprises around 65,000 hectares of plantations. It is in this northeastern part of the country that most Malagasy vanilla is produced: approximately 1,500 tonnes per year!

A long, complex, and challenging production

Vanilla production is long and arduous because pollination requires human intervention, and processing the pods into spice takes time. To give an idea of the steps involved in vanilla production, here is a summary:

• Vanilla is a tropical climbing orchid grown along tree trunks (under-canopy cultivation).
• The flowers are hand-pollinated.
• Mature, odorless pods are harvested and plunged into water heated to 65°C (scalding).
• The pods are immediately placed between woolen blankets in large boxes (sweating).
• The vanilla is dried in an oven at 65°C, then in the sun, and finally in the shade (drying for two to six weeks).
• The vanilla is aged for eight months in wooden trunks to develop its aroma (curing).
• The spice is finally graded and packaged.

Fluctuating prices and declining quality

The price per kilo has experienced significant fluctuations, ranging from nearly $500 in 2004, dropping to $50 in 2012-2013, and rebounding to $600 (485 euros) in 2017. However, exporters argue that prices must not exceed $200 per kilo to ensure the sector’s sustainability. The main reasons for these price spikes are powerful tropical cyclones: Gafilo in March 2004 and Enawo in March 2017. Additionally, theft and money laundering further destabilize the industry!  

To make up for lost production, growers harvest immature pods and shorten the curing process, which degrades the quality of the vanilla produced.

Fierce competition

To make matters worse, declining quality has opened the door to competition! Other countries have capitalized on the European Union's demand for organic and premium products. Indonesia has managed to secure 5% of global production, Uganda 4%, Papua New Guinea 3%, and India 2%. The biggest threat remains synthetic vanillin, the aromatic molecule of vanilla produced industrially, sold at $12 per kilo.  

Chinese-produced vanillin, created through a bio-fermentation process using natural raw materials (such as potatoes and beets), is marketed at $50 per kilo.

An uncertain future

The so-called Bourbon vanilla remains highly valued by top chefs worldwide, particularly in France. This label accompanies vanilla from Madagascar, Réunion Island, Mauritius, and the Comoros. It is perfectly organic and suits the European market as long as its quality is maintained.  

Malagasy authorities and stakeholders in the industry must unite to find sustainable ways to protect plantations and crops during the cyclone season. Theft and money laundering must also be addressed! Concrete actions, drastic changes, and considerable effort will be required to safeguard this sector.