The Vezo, nomads of the sea: A genealogy spanning ten generations

It was only after performing the fombafomba, a sacred regional ritual accompanied by toka gasy (local rum), that the 85-year-old village elder agreed to speak about the Vezo. In this community, tradition forbids mentioning the firazanana (lineages) without first offering tributes to the ancestors. It is crucial not to offend or awaken the spirits.  

The Vezo of the Andavadoaka region descend from six clans of this ethnic group: Tsimamaoke Bolotsoke, Namanoa, Marofobe Kimija, Omalagny Bekiho, and Tsihole. Through successive migrations from Anjero Manombo in the western part of the Atsimo-Andrefana region, they eventually chose to settle in Andamotibe. Most of the inhabitants of this village are descendants of these clans, settled here for six generations.  

Their long presence has given them a profound mastery of their environment. They instinctively locate their fishing spots at sea with remarkable precision, relying neither on compasses nor meteorological equipment. Instead, they trust knowledge passed down from their elders and their own experiences. The wind’s breath, the horizon, changing sky lights, coral formations, marine reefs, the positions of stars, the sea's movements, and its varying colors are all critical indicators ensuring their boats' safety and fishing success.  

The Vezo — men, women, and children — are considered the best fishermen in Madagascar. They can hold their breath for extended periods, diving tens of meters underwater. In Andavadoaka, fishermen harvest janga (sea cucumbers), hunt turtles, or catch octopus and lobsters without using scuba tanks.  

The Vezo practice all forms of fishing, whether on foot or in their dugout canoes. These canoes, crafted from a special wood (farafatse), are equipped with masks, harpoons, nets, and hooks. For the Vezo, the sea is their life-giving mother, holding the power over life and death. In their traditions, the sea punishes those who do not respect customs. Their relationship with the sea begins at birth. The umbilical cord remnants are placed in a seashell and offered to the sea, symbolizing the newborn’s destiny.  

Vezo children learn fishing techniques early. By age five, they begin navigating with miniature sail canoes. They also fish from small, two-meter-long boats, familiarizing themselves with various fishing methods. Later, they will choose between becoming a mpagniriky (diver) or a canoe fisherman.

Resources on the brink of extinction. In 2000, 9,000 tons of wild shrimp were caught in the ocean. By 2008, the figure had fallen to just 3,000 tons. This decline is a direct result of overfishing, which has also impacted fish stocks. European and Asian factory ships dominate the open seas, and the near-total absence of Malagasy coastguards allows them to encroach on the 350-km zone reserved for coastal states under international law.  

Traditional fishermen, who account for 70–80% of national production, also contribute to the problem. Both offshore and coastal predatory fishing practices are depleting the country’s marine resources, threatening the livelihoods of nearly 500,000 people who depend on them.

Bernard CONCHON - Détours Madagascar